After a week of sitting around Stockton, I convinced Rhonelle to head
for the hills, to Lake Tahoe. To be honest I haven't had much of an interest in
Tahoe before. It's a huge tourist destination and I had all sorts of
preconceived notions of loud families with large SUVs backing up traffic for
miles. And, since I don't really "do" lake-type activities (fishing, boating,
waterskiing, etc.) I wasn't sure what was really "in it" for me. The
communities around Tahoe are also quite urbanized and there's not much real
charm to the place in my opinion. While I wasn't entirely wrong after having
visited this past weekend, we certainly did enjoy ourselves.
Since
the drive is fairly direct (
US
50 to
CA 89), I also suggested that we visit the
Sugar Pine
Point State Park, which abuts part of the western shore of the lake.
My
handbook of state park day hikes pointed out
some moderately easy hikes (c. 7 miles, fairly level) and the state parks in
California are the best in the nation, so we made the park our real destination
for the day.
The drive up US 50 has a lot going for it. There are
some amazing stretches of countryside, particularly as you climb through the
foothills. At CA 49 in Placerville the highway narrows to two lanes and begins
the winding climb up to Echo Summit (7000-odd feet) paralleling the middle fork
of the American River (perhaps "echoing" the path of the river...). Traffic was
surprisingly light for a Saturday late morning. Once you're over the summit you
do a rapid descent of about 1000 feet tight against the cliff wall. You also
get your first view of the lake at that point and a short while later you arrive
in South Lake Tahoe and the land of vacationers and their SUVs. Since it was
about 1 pm we decided to get lunch, and had some very tasty burgers at a local
joint called Columbo's Burger A-Go-Go. We just beat the rush (fortunately) and
were soon back on the road (CA 89 by this point), winding our way along the
shore of the lake. Amazing scenery here: Emerald Bay (
also a state
park, incidentally) is gorgeous and every bit as "emerald" as its name
indicates.
So, we arrive at Sugar Pine Point, get in "free" with one
of our
California
State Parks Foundation passes, load up the backpack with water and
stuff and move out. The trail we took was a loop trail of about 7 miles,
following part of General Creek. The trail itself is also a fire road, a
situation which makes for a wide trail but also detracts a bit from a sense of
being out in the wilderness. Nevertheless, the trail was relatively flat and
easy and gave ample opportunity to look around. We were curious about the fire
damage that was evident as well as some very dead trees still standing amidst
normally living ones. We also debated (lightly) the question of whether taking
non-native plants from a state (or national) park was a good or bad thing.
Rhonelle tended to argue that it wasn't a terrible sin, while I argued (somewhat
from a Devil's Advocate position, though not entirely) that the park was a
living monument or museum, and that non-native species were a part of that
living ecology. As you can tell, we weren't huffing and puffing from the hike
here.
After making the loop we then walked through one of the
campsites attached to the park and crossed into the Edwin L. Z'Berg Natural
Preserve (Z'Berg was something of an environmentalist in the state legislature
during the 1970s) and then down to the lake itself. Off came the shoes and
socks and we walked into the lake for a quick cool-down. Brrrrrrrr. Oh my god.
Not only is the water icy cold (at first, of course), but the lake bottom is all
rocks so you're not only freezing from the thigh on down, but you're trying not
to stumble and get reeeeaally wet. Enjoyable and refreshing though. Then it
was a short walk through the rest of the preserve to the parking lot and the
car.
From there we continued up CA 89 to
CA
28, which winds around the north shore of the lake, and to the Nevada
border. Immediately the commercial landscape changes as you're met with two
rather large casinos. Fortunately there was
a local
brewery next to the casinos so we could get a refreshing drink without
having to go in one of the casinos. Since we needed to get back "down the
hill," we skipped participating in the (dead) octopus toss held by the brewery
and got back on the road toward I-80 and home.
CA
267 was our pathway to the interstate and it deposits you on some
large plains above the Truckee River. On I-80 it's only a short distance to
Donner Lake and Donner Pass and then it's nothing but downhill, from 7300-odd
feet to 16 feet (or less, depending), to the Sacramento valley. Surprisingly
rough road though -- it's not broken up from use in the way you might expect,
but it's not very smooth either. If I knew more about road surfaces, I'd tell
you more, but suffice it to say that the Interstate pavement itself was
interesting. Overall it was pretty drive, heading west into the sunset (the
colors are amazing when there are clouds -- like someone's turned the contrast
setting way up in Photoshop) and back home. Total mileage: 331
miles.
If you've made it this far, you may as well
check out the
photos.